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The Mekhela Chador (also spelled as Mekhela Chaddar, Mekhla Chadar, or Mekhlo Chador) is a traditional two-piece garment worn by women in Assam. This distinct attire consists of two separate cloth pieces—the mekhela and the chador—each playing an integral role in its draping style.
The mekhela is a cylindrical garment worn from the waist down, over a petticoat. It is typically pleated on the right side and tucked into place around the waist. The chador is a long piece of cloth that is tucked into the upper portion of the mekhela and draped over the shoulders, much like a palla in a saree. Unlike in earlier times, when a piece of cloth called the riha was worn, today a fitted blouse is paired with the Mekhela Chador.
History and Origin
While the precise origins of the Mekhela Chador remain unclear, it has long been the traditional dress of Assamese women. This attire has endured for generations, distinguishing itself from other regional garments like the Pavadai Dhavani or Ghagra, as it is worn by women of all ages across Assam.
Inspiration and Versatility
The Mekhela Chador is inspired by both everyday life and festive occasions. Women wear this garment while performing daily household chores or choose more elaborate versions for special events like weddings and cultural celebrations. Its adaptability makes it suitable for a range of settings, from casual to ceremonial.
The Craftsmanship Behind the Fabric
The Mekhela Chador is crafted by skilled women weavers of Assam, with the small town of Sualkuchi, located just 35 kilometers from Guwahati, being the heart of its production. Known as the “Manchester of Assam,” Sualkuchi is renowned for producing some of the finest Mekhela Chadors, which are highly sought after both locally and across India. The weavers of this town are responsible for preserving and passing down the intricate craft of weaving, ensuring the continued legacy of this iconic garment.
Varieties of Mekhela Chador
The Mekhela Chador is available in three primary varieties, each distinguished by the type of silk used in its creation:
- Muga Mekhela Chador: Made from the renowned Muga silk, these Mekhela Chadors are known for their durability and luxurious sheen. Muga silk is so durable that these garments often last a lifetime.
- Eri Mekhela Chador: Crafted from Eri silk, these garments are soft, warm, and ideal for colder weather, offering a comfortable yet elegant choice for daily wear.
- Pat Mekhela Chador: Made from Pat silk, these Mekhela Chadors are typically white or off-white in color, ranging from brilliant white to subtle cream tones. They are lightweight and known for their crisp texture.
Each of these variations reflects the rich heritage and skill of Assamese weavers, making the Mekhela Chador a symbol of both tradition and timeless craftsmanship.
Present Day Scenario
Currently, the majority of Mekhela Chadors are produced in the small town of Sualkuchi in Assam, which is known as the hub for weaving these traditional garments. Once made, they are distributed across Assam and exported to various regions of India. The popularity of Mekhela Chadors is steadily growing, capturing the attention of women across the country. A significant moment in this journey was when the Mekhela Chador was showcased at Lakme Fashion Week (LFW) Summer Resort 2013 by fashion designer Vaishali Shadangule.
Innovations
Traditionally, Mekhela Chadors are two-piece outfits, consisting of the mekhela (a cylindrical garment) and the chador (the draped piece), typically made from Muga Silk, Pat Silk, or Eri Silk. However, during Lakme Fashion Week 2013, designer Vaishali Shadangule reimagined the Mekhela Chador by giving it a more modern and chic twist. She transformed the traditional Assamese attire into stylish evening dresses, kurtas, and pants, blending heritage with contemporary fashion.
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Global Appeal
Mekhela Chadors crafted from Muga or Pat Silk are highly sought after for special occasions and can be worn throughout the year. The luxurious sheen and durability of these silks make them perfect for weddings and festive events. On the other hand, Eri Silk Mekhela Chadors are soft, warm, and ideal for colder climates. Cotton variants are more suitable for daily wear, providing comfort for home use. With their variety of fabric options, Mekhela Chadors cater to different climates and occasions, further enhancing their appeal both locally and globally.
Maintenance
Mekhela Chadors are generally easy to maintain, particularly those made from Muga Silk. These garments can be hand-washed with ease and are known to become more lustrous with each wash. The durability of Muga silk ensures that these Mekhela Chadors often last a lifetime, outliving even their original owners.
Accessorizing
The Mekhela Chador can be beautifully accessorized to elevate its charm. Opt for bold, colorful pearl necklaces, medium-sized earrings, and large silver bangles to complement the attire. These accessories not only enhance the beauty of the garment but also add a touch of elegance and grace to the wearer’s overall appearance.
Looking Ahead: The Future of Mekhela Chador
With innovative designers like Vaishali Shadangule introducing the Mekhela Chador to the fashion world, particularly by bringing it to the fashion capital of Mumbai with a contemporary twist, the future of this traditional Assamese attire looks incredibly promising. The fusion of heritage and modern design has paved the way for this classic garment to gain wider recognition and popularity, making it a significant part of India’s evolving fashion landscape.
