Image Courtesy: https://zeezest.com/
Khar, an ancient ingredient essential to Assamese cuisine, adds a unique dimension of flavor to dishes. Colleen Taylor Sen, a renowned culinary historian, notes in her book Feasts and Fasts: A History of Food in India that Assamese cuisine is the only regional Indian cuisine that has preserved the six tastes of ancient Hindu gastronomy. Alkalinity is a key characteristic that sets Assamese cuisine apart from others in India.
This alkalinity is derived from khar, a distinctive additive found only in Northeast India. Khar is not only valued for its nutritional benefits but also plays an important role in culturally significant customs and rituals throughout Assam. The process of making khar is taken very seriously, with every matriarch approaching it with diligence and care.
Origins and Evolution
Khar is a dark brown liquid with a strong astringent aroma. It can be produced in large quantities and stored for several months, making it a staple ingredient throughout the year. Traditionally, the months of Kartik and Ahin are considered ideal for preparing khar. While the process is taken seriously, it is relatively simple.
Khar is typically made from the ashes of banana peels. The banana variety used, Musa balbisiana, is native to parts of Southeast Asia and commonly found in the northeastern states of India, often growing wild. This wild species is an ancestor of modern bananas. Unlike the familiar varieties, Musa balbisiana is filled with seeds, making it less palatable. However, it is one of the traditional first foods in Assam, known as bhim kol or aathiya kol, and is often given to infants. For introducing solid foods, slices of ripe bhim kol are dried, powdered, and mixed with water or milk for babies.
In making khar, only the peels of ripe bhim kol are used. These peels are sundried in batches and stored in cool, airtight containers. When khar is needed, the dried peels are burned to create ashes. The next step involves filtering pure water through these ashes overnight. As the water passes through, it becomes dark brown and acquires its distinctive astringent aroma.
Taste & Nutrition
The raw liquid has a distinctly astringent flavor. When cooked with other ingredients, khar enhances the dish’s texture and adds a unique piquancy. Khar made with black gram, green gram, or papaya tends to have a slimy texture, while fish khar and cabbage khar maintain their original texture, contributing primarily a strong flavor and aroma. Khar has become a standout item in restaurants specializing in Assamese cuisine. Once a staple for everyday people, it is now celebrated as the ideal palate cleanser. Assamese food startups have made bottled kolakhar available across India, allowing you to easily incorporate this unique ingredient into your diet for added alkalinity.
Image Courtesy: https://khorisa.blogspot.com/
Ingredients
- 250 grams black gram, washed and soaked
- 100 grams raw papaya, cubed
- 1 teaspoon grated ginger
- 2 tablespoons kolakhar
- 2 tablespoons mustard oil
- Salt, to taste
- 2 glasses water
Method of Making Khar
- Begin by pressure cooking the black gram and cubed raw papaya with an adequate amount of water and salt. This process ensures that the legumes are softened while infusing the papaya with flavor.
- Once the pressure cooker has released steam, transition to a wok for the next phase of cooking.
- Pour in the mustard oil and heat it until it reaches its smoking point. This step is crucial as it enhances the oil’s flavor profile and prepares it for subsequent ingredients.
- Introduce the grated ginger to the hot oil and sauté it for about half a minute. This will release the essential oils and aromatic compounds, enriching the dish’s overall fragrance.
- Next, add the cooked black gram, papaya, and kolakhar into the wok. The combination of these ingredients will create a complex flavor base.
- Bring the mixture to a vigorous boil before reducing the heat to a simmer. This adjustment is important to control the cooking process and prevent any scorching.
- Allow the mixture to cook until you achieve the desired smooth texture. This may take some time, as it allows the flavors to meld and develop fully.
- Taste the dish and adjust the salt as necessary to enhance the overall flavor profile, then turn off the heat.
- Finally, serve the dish alongside freshly cooked rice, allowing the contrasting textures and flavors to complement each other beautifully.
